Requirements and Characteristics of Modern Suit Matching
Over the years, all kinds of men's clothing, the quality (system) to maintain the longest and basically the same suit. Due to the orthodox and dignified style of the suit, which represents the man's social status, essential strength and charisma, it has enjoyed a long period of more than 200 years. With the development of society and economy and the progress of textile and garment technology, the fabrics and accessories used for sewing suits have undergone great changes. However, the basic requirements for sewing suits have basically remained unchanged. Since the 1990s, there have been some changes in the design and cutting of suits but only in the innovation of suit style. Compared with the traditional suits, the most obvious changes in the modern new style suit performance in the production process and dress concept. First of all, it uses a thin, pure wool fabric that has a light weight, a soft touch, a good drapability and a high quality. These fabrics are more rich in color and pattern, bright, relaxed, natural, very modern. Second, the cutting process uses the popular European "soft cut" to make the shape of the suit more fluid and natural. The shoulders of the suits use round and thin shoulder pads, smooth shoulders and no stiff lines. At the waist, relaxing through the waistlines is more relaxed and comfortable than the usual suits. Free, the body is also longer than the average traditional suit, shape more casual, not rigid, informal cautious. Third, the use of materials, the emphasis on the use of high-quality materials, such as commonly used adhesive lining, black carbon lining and lining materials such as supple, feel more soft, lightweight, good shape retention, easy to wear. Fourth, the style of suit tends to be both solemn and novel, in the traditional single-row 2-button and 4-button double-button, based on the development of a variety of 3 buttons, 4 buttons or 6 buttons, tops open slits or After the slits, patch pocket design, etc., to wear more in line with the modern style, both men's masculinity, but also reflects the recent years, men's elegant, gentle, friendly pursuit of style. This article focuses on the new style suits popular in recent years in the world, and mainly introduces the basic requirements and main features of the men's suit when using different sewing techniques. Men's suits and shirts lining the parts and requirements As we all know, the merits of a suit quality, mainly by its internal structure and material decision. Despite the ever-changing fashion, each suit is still based on the use of lining cloth to build its "skeleton" and "backbone", with the fabric and lining between the good compatibility, to shape the beautiful appearance of suits. Due to differences in suit style and production process in each region, there are some differences between the types of lining cloths to be used in the sewing of suits and the matching parts as well as the size specifications of the linings. However, the conventional suit matching parts and The lining specifications are basically the same. Suit production process and lining way Comprehensive overview of the current domestic and foreign suit production process, summed up mainly there are three types, namely, traditional crafts, semi-traditional crafts and modern technology, the corresponding suit jacket lining there are 3 different ways. Traditional craft suits made with traditional crafts suits, also known as full hair lining suit. This craft is the first choice of advanced custom suits and high-end designer suits at home and abroad. Traditional craft suits with full hair lining lining way, that is, the suit jacket body, head and noodle and other parts do not have to bond lining, all use high-grade high-quality black carbon lining. The chest and shoulders of the suit use a chest liner made of a combination of high-quality black carbon lining, high-density ponytail and chest padding. Sewn with this process suit, not only the body fit, comfortable to wear, and suit the appearance of lines smooth, strong sense of three-dimensional. In particular, the shape of the suit chest is very full, crisp. Because this suit is based on manual sewing operations, workmanship is very elegant, the production process takes more man-hours, the choice of fabrics and accessories are very high, so the high cost of making suits, about the cost of ordinary suits 5 ~ 6 times. Semi-traditional process suit semi-traditional process is based on the traditional suit process to simplify and form the appropriate, it retains the main features of the traditional process, the suit made with this process is also known as half-lining suit. Its lining is usually 2 ways: one is in the front part of the suit before the clothing is bonded with a spunbond lining for large body lining, while the head lining is black carbon lining; the other is also in the suit The front piece is bonded with a spunbond lining for the body lining, and then use high-quality black carbon lining as the main chest lining in the body parts above the waist section, the same lining lining also use the same black carbon lining. In cutting the lining liner can be the main line with the liner lined cut together, but also the liner lined with the main liner were cut and lining, the industry often said the latter approach is "dug head" process . In the chest and shoulder the same selection of high-quality black carbon liner, high-density ponytail and chest comb made of combination chest lining. Suit made with this process, the body is more light hail smooth, fit, comfortable. Compared with the traditional craft suits, its approach is relatively simple, time-saving, lower processing costs, but the shape retention of clothing is not as traditional craft suits. Modern technology suits Modern technology refers to the current domestic and international advanced assembly line equipment used in mass production of suits, suits made using this technology, also known as adhesive lining suits. The biggest difference between modern technology and traditional and semi-traditional crafts lies in the fact that the big body lining and the front lining of the suit are all replaced by the black carbon lining with the spunbond lining, and the bonding lining of the main body and the front lining is usually Followed by cutting and bonding suit; followed suit chest and shoulder lining extensive use of pre-processing and shaping made of combination chest liner (open lining), according to process requirements in the assembly line directly on the sewing assembly; the third Is the collar of the collar commonly used in the collar to use a better plasticity of the bottom of the collar it, after the type of stereotypes can make the suit collar style and body effect better. The lining of modern technology suits matching requirements of light, soft, flexible in order to fully reflect the modern suits light, hailstorm, soft and comfortable to wear. Modern craft suits absorb the best of traditional and semi-traditional suit suits, replacing most of the sewing operations with highly automated machines and equipment, especially for the mass production of professional suits and ordinary suits. As the main production process suits, such as cutting, bonding, sewing and ironing all use advanced machinery and equipment processing, not only improve the production efficiency of suits, but also significantly reduce production costs. As mentioned above, the quality of suits is related to the design and processing factors, and also has a close relationship with the selected surface and auxiliary materials and lining technology. With the progress of science and technology and the development of new types of textile materials, the fabrics and excipients used in the production of modern suits have many changes compared with the past. The new style suit not only tends to be more frivolous and modern with the selection of woolen materials, but also has many different uses of accessories. For example, the base fabric with a spun bond lining is softer, lighter and more flexible than the past, Coating methods and finishing processes also have a lot of improvements. Black charcoal lining and cored ponytail and chest velvet units with lighter weight, better feel, elasticity and recovery. Lining soft and smooth material, moisture absorption, better antistatic properties. Lining and lining environmental performance, such as the content of free formaldehyde and toxic, harmful dyes and other restrictions have a more stringent standards, which have led to further improve the quality of suits, make wearing more safe and comfortable. Modern technology suit to use adhesive lining-based, not only simplifies the lining of the suit process, improve production efficiency, but also contribute to product quality and stability. As long as the adhesive lining and fabric matching properly, the choice of bonding process parameters reasonable, the intrinsic quality of suits can be guaranteed. The lining of the traditional craft suits, still use black carbon lining, hand-based lining, it can be customized according to the requirements of the wearer and the characteristics of individual tailoring and elaborate sewing, to ensure the stability of the quality of suits. Currently advanced custom suits and handbags international brands are still mostly used traditional lining technology. Suit production process is different, its requirements and characteristics of the lining are also different.