Cashmere industry upgrade and transformation

A full three-day rush to observe the China International Cashmere Festival held at the Hong Kong International Convention Center. Hear expert presentations and exchanged views with several cashmere exhibitors. The reporter found that the transformation and upgrading of the cashmere industry had achieved initial results, and the brand awareness of the industry chain was awakened. Products are diversified.

Economic recovery, industrial upgrading show smile

This year, China's cashmere market has seen double-digit growth in recent years. According to China Customs' import and export data, from January to July, China's cashmere and wool-free exports were 1,451 tons, with a total value of US$146.66 million. The amount and amount increased by 57% and 51% year-on-year, respectively. Cashmere products had export value of 692.23 million US dollars, an increase of 19.9 percent year-on-year. %.

“This is a very brilliant data. This achievement is very precious and it is not easy to come by.” Tian Lu, head of the Animal Husbandry Division of the China Food, Animal and Livestock Import and Export Chamber of Commerce, said at the International Cashmere Festival Forum. He analyzed and pointed out two reasons: On the one hand, the world economy is improving, cashmere as a high-end luxury goods, and the price elasticity is large; on the other hand, China's cashmere export pressure has been greater in the past two years, and export growth has been slow. This data is at a very low base. The increase in growth is a kind of restorative growth.

In spite of this, he said: “Looking forward throughout the year, even if the future development has slowed down in this trend, it is still a very good year for the whole year. From the export structure, the growth of dehaired cashmere has reached 50. More than % means that market confidence has increased and overseas stocks have also been consumed."

All along, China is considered to be a big country of cashmere raw materials, because nearly 75% of the world's cashmere raw materials are produced in China. However, from January to July this year, China imported 5,228 tons of cashmere raw materials, imports increased by 26.9% year-on-year, amounted to US$87.71 million, up 47.8% year-on-year, and cashmere yarns exported 2,741 tons to US$356.57 million, up 26%, respectively. And 36%; cashmere scarf exports 26,880,000 US dollars, down 19%; cashmere sweater exports 28,220 million US dollars, an increase of 7%. Tian Hao, who has been in the cashmere industry for nearly 10 years, commented: “This data is very interesting. China has changed from a big raw material country to an importer of raw materials.”

Looking back at history, the low end of China's cashmere industry, when the highest export volume reached 5,000 tons, China's cashmere raw material imports in 2003 was 1629 tons, 10 years after today's growth rate of 2.38 times. This fully explains two issues: First, industrial upgrading, more companies began to spin, to make finished products; Second, the constraints of environmental factors such as captivity, limited conservation, China's cashmere production capacity decreased.

"With such a large amount of imports, it is fully demonstrated that China's cashmere market is very large, and it has become the world's fastest-growing and most potential cashmere market, and the upgrading of the industry will inevitably lead to an increase in consumption," Tian said.

Pioneering and innovative: diversification of cashmere apparel

For a long time, Chinese cashmere products have given people outdated and single “cashmere sweaters”. Many domestic fashion-conscious consumers prefer to spend a lot of money, but also to buy foreign brands made of Chinese cashmere. China has always been a loser in the terminal design and product innovation of cashmere products. However, the cashmere dresses, cashmere cheongsams, and cashmere underwear displayed on the models at the International Cashmere Festival Fashion Show this year really made the participating audience brighten up.

This reporter learned that these fashionable and unique cashmere garments were selected from 61 Chinese cashmere companies. From the love of cashmere cheongsam, the reporter interviewed the team leader of R&D and designing this high value-added clothing—Pangu Wang.

With his understanding of the cashmere industry and his deep feelings for grassland culture, Chairman Wang created his own cashmere museum three years ago. At present, cashmere museum presents a series of cashmere from cashmere cheongsam, cashmere coat to cashmere underwear. apparel.

How do you think of making cashmere into a cheongsam?

According to her introduction, the development of cashmere cheongsam is not easy. When the initial R&D team suggested that she would make cashmere into a cheongsam, she vetoed: “Is cashmere so soft and made into a cheongsam that can have a self-cultivation effect?” After many times with the team Researchers communicated that Chairman Wang finally realized the benefits of cashmere made into a cheongsam: "Cashmere unique soft clothing, made of cheongsam upper body will be better." Today, Chairman Wang led the team, is boldly trying to develop the spring Cashmere dresses of various seasons in summer, autumn, winter, and winter, and it is intended to combine cashmere and ethnic cultures to make cashmere Hada with Inner Mongolia cultural symbols.

"We must break the conventional thinking and gradually enrich the cashmere museum, making it a window for outsiders to understand cashmere," said Chairman Wang. In fact, at this cashmere show, many companies such as Wesson and Pippi have presented fashionable and unique cashmere apparel. The information on the high-end line of cashmere has been conveyed through these luxurious and expensive apparel products. The appearance of diversity in cashmere clothing shows that China's cashmere industry has achieved some results in the transformation and upgrading.

Change in Consciousness: Specialization in Brand Building

Cashmere Exhibition also conveyed a clear message that China's cashmere industry chain has begun to attach importance to brand building.

"Mi Zhen" is a supplier of cashmere raw materials. At the Grand Cashmere Pavilion, attracting reporters to stop at it is a huge banner across the booth - "the most professional supply chain service provider in the cashmere industry."

Chairman Li Yu describes himself as a veteran in the cashmere industry for 30 years. Based on his understanding of the cashmere industry for 30 years, he analyzes the development law of the cashmere industry, sorts out the pulse of industry development, and positions himself: to be a raw material brand company and to be global Raw material brand supplier. He said: "It can't be like the past, we want to raise sheep, we also want to process, but also do clothing, the chain is too long and worst, we must tie up with the upstream and downstream partners to negotiate the relationship to meet the needs of high-end customers, focus on The value of cashmere resources is developed so that the cashmere industry can lead the fashion and luxury life."

In fact, there are quite a few people who have the same ideas as Li Lan. Like Seritel Co., Ltd., the manager of the company, Guo Xijun, introduced that their company has been engaged in the processing of cashmere products for more than 30 years. Domestic brands like Erdos are almost all of them. customer of.

As we all know, the cashmere industry processing link is the least profitable part of the chain and asked if we want to expand into a fashion brand.

Guo Xijun said: "No, at present, we only want to do a good job of processing this block, after all, this link also requires people to do it." After the reporter learned that it was discovered that Satellite focused on fine processing over the years, already in the industry With a certain reputation, it is a good choice for it to concentrate on creating a brand enterprise in the processing industry.

At a brand service provider's booth, the reporter saw Li Jianming, general manager of Zhongfuda Co., Ltd. He is looking for a terminal brand company that can connect with himself. He has been dedicated to cashmere worsted. He told reporters: “I want to follow the front line brand. Business cooperation to create my reputation as a supplier of cashmere sticks.”

Among the participating companies, there are raw material purchasers, raw material processors, processed product processors, and specialized cashmere products companies, all of whom have a clear positioning for themselves: “Take advantage of their own links.”

Quality Classification: Standardization of Sustainable Development

The price of cashmere raw materials has been rising all the way, at least indicating its scarcity. With the reduction in the number of goats, the fiber brought by sheep breeds has become thicker and the sustainable development of the industry is worrying.

The sustainable development of the cashmere industry must create high-end demand, cultivate the high-end cashmere consumer market, and realize the potential value of cashmere products. The key to this issue is to allow consumers to deepen their awareness and acceptance of high-end consumer products such as cashmere.

The price of cashmere raw materials accounts for a large proportion in the end products, which leads to more imitations and frauds in the industry. The two pieces of pure cashmere, the raw material of which is the nominal pure cashmere, will have great differences in feel, uniformity, luster, cleanliness, pilling, etc. The fundamental reason is the quality of cashmere raw materials, there is no good raw materials, post processing is very Difficult to make up for the impact of clothing.

Intertek Group Cheng Jihong said: “We discovered during testing that some cashmere looks fine on the surface and may actually have been severely damaged, like some hides, cashmere, and degloving.”

Increasing the consumer’s right to know about the quality of cashmere products is the basic prerequisite for high-end demand for cashmere. China’s testing standards for raw and lint-free products have long existed. This year, the Ministry of Commerce issued the "Cashmere and Product Grading Standards" industry standard, which is the grading of fibers in raw materials or cashmere products. It classifies fiber types into excellent grades and grades 1 to 234, and grading indicators are expressed in fiber diameters.

“This standard not only allows consumers to distinguish between good and bad cashmere products, but also can promote the industry to improve the technology and processing equipment from the source, but also indirectly increase the income of farmers and herdsmen, so that cashmere to achieve quality, Rather than price by weight, so that the industry will become sustainable." Cheng Jihong said.

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